Eat · Malawi

The plate

Chambo is the lake's tilapia and the national dish, usually grilled whole with nsima and a tomato-and-onion relish. Nsima is the maize staple, a firm porridge eaten with the hands; every lodge will make it, and it's better than it sounds. Kampango is a large lake catfish, meatier than chambo. Usipa are tiny dried fish, sold in cones at every market and fried crisp. Mandasi are fried doughnuts for breakfast. Vegetables lean on pumpkin leaves, beans and groundnuts, and the groundnut stews are worth asking for.

The glass

Malawi grows tea around Thyolo and coffee around Mzuzu, and both are good enough to bring home. Carlsberg has been brewed in Blantyre since 1968 and is the default beer; Kuche Kuche is the lighter local one. Malawi Gin with tonic at sunset on the lake is close to a ritual. Bottled water everywhere; see health.

Restaurants we can book

Lilongwe and Blantyre both have a proper restaurant scene: Indian, Korean, Italian, Indo-Chinese, steakhouses, and a few places doing Malawian food well. Mzuzu mostly eats in its lodges. These are the ones with the strongest reviews right now; tell us the city and the night and we'll sort a table.

Restaurant	City	Cuisine	Notes
The African Table 4.4 on Google · Map	Lilongwe	Malawian and West African	Open kitchen, proper nsima and groundnut stews. Go early; popular dishes run out.
Kuwala Gardens 4.2 on Google · Map	Lilongwe	Garden restaurant, pizza, drinks	Landscaped grounds next to the wildlife centre. Slow service, good evening.
Saffron's Cafe and Bar 4.7 on Google · Map	Lilongwe	Indian	Big sharing portions, best naan in town by several accounts. Closed Mondays.
Mamma Mia 4.3 on Google · Map	Lilongwe	Italian	The old reliable in Old Town. Pizza is the safe order.
Cup n Roll 4.5 on Google · Map	Lilongwe	Korean and Japanese	Sushi and udon on Presidential Way. Surprising, and good.
Mum's Table 4.6 on Google · Map	Lilongwe	Korean home cooking	Run by a Korean couple in a garden. Kimchi stew after a long bus ride.
Hostaria 4.4 on Google · Map	Blantyre	Italian	Fresh pasta, rustic room, the owner in attendance. Book ahead.
Bistro 4.7 on Google · Map	Blantyre	Café and bistro	Cosy, plant-filled, gnocchi from the specials board. Weekdays only.
The Palazzo 4.5 on Google · Map	Blantyre	Steaks, pizza, family	Thursday to Sunday. Steak and Parmesan mash at fair prices.
Cozy Corner 4.8 on Google · Map	Blantyre	Indo-Chinese	No signage, found by word of mouth, strong vegetarian menu.
Mama Cathy's 5.0 on Google · Map	Mzuzu	Malawian	Local plates, weekdays to 5pm. Mzuzu eats mostly in its lodges; this is the exception worth checking.
Lodge kitchens	Everywhere else	Fresh chambo, set menus	Dietary needs handled if told in advance. Included or ordered at the lodge.

Markets and street food

Worth doing with a driver or guide the first time. Lilongwe's Old Town market for fruit, chitenje fabric and usipa; roadside stalls for roasted maize and mandasi. Eat what's cooked in front of you and hot. Your driver will know which stalls the locals use.

Dietary needs

Vegetarian is easy; vegan is doable with notice; gluten-free is straightforward since nsima is maize. Tell us on the request form and we tell every lodge on your itinerary before you arrive.